Installation Tools

Proper tools are essential for a professional installation - not to mention it saves time and is easier on the nerves. Below are some of the more common tools for a standard installation:

• Wire Strippers
• Wire Cutters - you may need something heavy-duty for 4-1/0-gauge wire.
• Terminal Crimpier - may be inclusive with strippers/cutters. A special type of crimpier is generally required for anything larger than 8 gauge (usually a hammer type crimpier or a crimpier which resembles bolt cutters).
• Wire Connectors/Ring Terminals - make sure the size of the connectors matches that of the wire.
• Phillips/Flat Head Screwdrivers - be sure to have the right size screwdriver to avoid stripping a screw head.
• Car Repair Manual - an indispensable tool when it comes to the disassembly of your console and door panels, or finding a wiring diagram, etc. Chilton's and Haynes are both excellent manuals and can be found at your local auto store or library. Save yourself the headache of breaking fasteners because of a hidden screw.
• Digital Multimeter (VOM) - test your connections by using the ohmmeter, check for correct polarities before connecting equipment etc.
• Pliers - regular and needle nose.
• Electrical Tape/Nylon Ties - any exposed connectors/wires should be taped to prevent a short circuit. Also, wires should be bundled to keep them away from moving parts, and for the sake of appearance.
• Tape Measure, Ruler, and Pencil - it is tempting to hold a speaker or amp in place while drilling a hole. If you want to get your holes straight though, it is highly recommended that you measure, mark, then drill holes. It is also very frustrating to slip and drill a hole right through your speaker!
• Center Punch (and Hammer) - punch an indent where you're going to drill. It keeps the drill bit from "walking" which will better align your holes, and just looks nicer than having little trails all over the place.
• Power Drill/Drill Bits - preferably cordless. Make sure you have the right size drill bits. Start with a small hole when drilling screw holes. You can always make it bigger, but you can't make it smaller.
• Other Tools - you may need other tools depending on your install. A jig saw, tin snips, nibbling tool, trim pry bar (for door trim, etc.), Allen wrenches or star bits, a socket set, grommets, flashlight, file, etc. Look over your vehicle and find out the tools you need BEFORE you start ripping things apart.

General Installation Guidelines

• Plan out your installation before anything. Will an amplifier fit where you want it to, will the screws have clearance on the opposite side? Will cables be clear of moving parts and mounted as to avoid strain?
• Be familiar with technical terms. If you don't know what something means, scroll down and check in the glossary
• Remember, once you drill or cut a hole, there's no turning back. 1. Make sure there are no obstructions when accessories are mounted. 2. Be absolutely sure of your measurements.
• Make sure you have enough wire to leave some slack. It will make disassembly much easier if the need arises.
• All screws should be hand tightened. You may think your installation would go faster with a power screwdriver, until a screw head gets stripped or your bit lodges into your speaker cone. Care should also be given to the equal tightening of screws on speakers, especially when the frame is mounted on a padded surface, as speaker frames can be twisted and distorted, which will knock the voice coil off center and ruin your speaker.
• To reduce line noise, plan to route speaker wires and RCA line-in/out wires away from high current/high noise wires. (i.e. away from the cables which power your amp(s), power window/antenna motors, ABS brake system, engine computer signals, etc.)

Always observe proper polarities. While reversing polarity in regards to a power supply will quickly be evident, speaker polarity might not seem like such a big deal, but it is, especially when it comes to powering your subwoofers. When one speaker is connected with the opposite polarity of another speaker, it is termed "out of phase". While one speaker will be pushing, the other will be pulling, in effect, canceling each other out. This leaves a very dull and unimpressive bass.

Installation - Amplifiers

Before You Begin:

• Make sure you have all the tools and parts required to install your amplifier before you begin installation.
• It is highly recommended that you obtain a Chilton's or Haynes auto repair manual from your local auto store or library. This is an invaluable tool when it comes to the assembly/disassembly of your console, dash and door panels, and it also contains helpful wiring diagrams.
• Be sure that the location you have chosen to install your amp will leave sufficient space for all wires and will be clear of any moving parts. Also check to make sure that the holes which will need to be drilled to mount the amplifier will be clear of items such as the gas tank, wire harnesses, brake lines, etc.
• Plan to route RCA/speaker wires away from high current/noise sources such as the power antenna motor (and other motors), anti-lock brake system, computer, etc.
• Disconnect your battery's ground (-) cable to prevent damage to your vehicle or amplifier caused by an accidental short.

Amplifier Installation:

• After having found a suitable location to install your amp (the trunk or rear seat is common), measure carefully and mark exactly the position of the amp and holes to drill. Measuring from both the top and sides of the amplifier will help to center and square the amplifier for a professional looking installation.
• Before drilling any holes, make sure there are no obstructions on the reverse side, such as a gas tank.
• It is suggested that after marking the holes, you use a center punch (or awl) to make an indent where the center of the hole will be. This will help insure that when you drill the hole, it will be on center, and prevents the drill bit from "walking."
• Drill the mounting holes with a drill bit smaller than that of the mounting screws.
• Mount the amp and tighten all screws by hand to avoid stripping the screw head or threads.
• Run the appropriate gauge power wire directly from the positive battery terminal of the battery. For safety, the power wire should be fused via an in-line fuse located as close to the battery as possible. See the bottom of this page for the recommended wire gauge that corresponds to the power handling of your amp.
• The ground wire (-) should run from the amp directly to the chassis (metal) of the car. Make sure that you scrape away the paint to make a good connection.
• If installing more than one amp, or capacitor(s), it is recommended that a distribution block is installed close to the accessories.
• It is recommended that a capacitor be installed for systems greater than 500 watts. We recommend a .5 - 1-farad capacitor per 500 watts. This will increase the amount of power available to the amp during power-hungry peaks. Remember: A capacitor must be installed in PARALLEL to the amplifier, NOT in series.
• All amplifiers have a remote turn-on, which powers the amp only when the ignition (accessory) switch is on. The "remote" on the amp should be connected to the "remote" on the head-unit (usually a blue or blue/white wire). If there is no remote turn on wire, connect it to the power antenna (usually blue) wire. If there is no power antenna wire, connect it to the red accessory (ignition) wire. The remote turn-on wire should be about 14 gauge.
• Connect the speakers using appropriate gauge wire. 16 gauge is generally sufficient for lower power speakers, 12-10 gauge for larger speakers.
• Connect pre-amp outs from head unit to amplifier via RCA cables. If your head unit doesn't have RCA pre-amp outs, most amps have "high-level inputs" which allow the speakers wires from the head unit to be directly connected to the amplifier.
• Be sure that wires are routed away from high current/noise sources to avoid introducing noise into the lines.
• Double check all connections and reconnect your battery's ground cable.
• Adjust the amplifier's input gain to the lowest setting, and then turn the stereo on. The amp should now be on, if not, re-check all wiring thoroughly. Adjust the volume on the head unit to 1/3 maximum volume, and then adjust the input sensitivity (gain) on the amplifier to a comfortable level.
• If you are using your amp to power subwoofers only, set your amp to "low-pass," to pass only low frequencies, and adjust the crossover frequency to that which sounds good and/or matches the specs of your speaker.

Enjoy your new amp!